Short answer: Curls are cut mostly dry, curl by curl, because a curl springs up as it dries. The shape is built with layers according to curl type and face shape.
Why are curls not cut like straight hair?
On straight hair, what you cut wet is what you see dry. Not on curls. Depending on the type, a curl can shrink by 20% to 50% of its length once dry, and each area of the head shrinks differently. Cut wet in one line, it dries uneven.
The techniques we use
Dry cut
The hair is cut dry, in its natural shape. We see where each strand sits before and after every snip, so there are no surprises.
Curl-by-curl cutting
Each curl or group of curls is cut separately, at the point where it turns. The curl closes cleanly instead of breaking mid-spiral.
Layers for shape and volume
Without layers the weight collects at the bottom and the hair forms a triangle: flat on top, wide at the ends. Layers spread the volume and give height where it is needed.
Internal weight removal
On very dense hair we remove weight from inside, without thinning the ends. Thinned ends usually frizz, so we avoid it.
What changes by curl type
- Wavy 2A-2C: weight at the base, long layers, no heavy graduation.
- Curly 3A-3C: layers for a round shape and internal weight removal.
- Coily 4A-4C: a shape built in levels, with minimal graduation at the ends.
Not sure of your type? See Curl Types 2A to 4C.
A fringe on curly hair: does it work?
It does, as long as it is cut dry and longer than you want it, because it will spring up. It suits long faces and high foreheads especially, and needs a little water and product each morning.
Shape and face
- Long face: width at cheekbone level.
- Round face: height at the crown and control at the sides.
- Square face: curls that soften the jawline.
At the atelier, facial proportions are measured with Face Metrics Pro.
How a curly cut works at the atelier
- Diagnosis: curl type, density, porosity and how much each area shrinks.
- Dry cut: curl by curl, on the natural fall.
- Wash and hydration: the hydration treatment is included in the price.
- Natural texture styling: diffuser on low heat.
- Shape check: final dry corrections and guidance for home.
Common mistakes we see
- A wet cut in a straight line that dries uneven.
- Thinned ends, which cause frizz.
- No layers at all, which gives a triangle.
- Very short layers at the crown on a tight curl, which stick out.
How often to refresh
Every 10 to 14 weeks. Curls hide grow-out better than straight hair, but past 14 weeks the shape gets heavy at the base.
Book your curly cut
At Ikonomakis Hair Atelier (Irakleitou 80, Chalandri, Athens) curly hair is cut dry, curl by curl, from €55. Book online or see the Curly Haircut in Athens service. All our curl guides are collected in the Curly Hair Guide.